Oefeningen voor klimmers — A2-pulley bescherming, RED-S bewustzijn, antagonist balans

Schöffl 2018 + 2020 established the climbing finger injury framework: A2 pulley ruptures (full + partial) dominate finger pathology, lockoff + crimp positions concentrate load on flexor tendons + pulleys, full ruptures require ~6-12 weeks off + graduated H-tape or splint return. Beyond finger injuries, climbers face shoulder + elbow overuse from pulling pattern dominance without antagonist work. Mountjoy 2018 IOC RED-S applies — bouldering + sport climbing have body-composition + appearance culture that drives underfueling, which raises stress fracture + finger overuse + general fatigue risk. The exercise priorities are therefore: antagonist push work to balance chronic pull, scapular control + rotator cuff for shoulder protection, finger nerve glide for carpal tunnel adjacent, hip + glute work for back protection during loaded climbing, and breath/parasympathetic anchors. AVOID heavy crimp on inflamed/swollen finger; AVOID training through pop-sensation crimp pain (acute pulley rupture).

Volya's catalogue carries the foundation moves: external-rotation-band for rotator cuff balance against pull-pattern shoulder load, scapular-retraction for posture against rounded climbing-stance shoulders, wall-push-up for antagonist push balance, median-nerve-glide for carpal tunnel + nerve health (heavy crimp + hangboard adjacent), supported-glute-bridge for posterior chain that protects the back during loaded climbing, supine-knee-to-chest for low-back release, supine-piriformis-stretch for hip release (chronic high-step + heel hook), cat-cow for spinal mobility, diaphragmatic-breathing for parasympathetic regulation + climb breath control. The AI coach also knows the nutrition side — Mountjoy RED-S framework applies (bouldering body-comp culture drives underfueling), protein 1.6-2.0 g/kg/day for finger tendon + tissue recovery, carb periodization (4-7 g/kg climbing days; 3-4 g/kg rest), collagen + vitamin C 15 g + 50 mg 30-60 min pre-finger session shows tendon-stimulus evidence (Shaw 2017 — supportive not definitive), iron status monitoring (female climbers commonly iron-deficient; annual ferritin labs), calcium 1000-1300 mg/day + vitamin D for bone density, hydration 500-750 ml/h sustained climbing day, alcohol AVOID within 24h of key sessions, AVOID restrictive 'send weight' chasing (RED-S trigger), AVOID training through pop-sensation pulley pain (acute rupture). CRITICAL: hand surgeon + sports medicine for finger pop / persistent swelling / numbness — full A2 ruptures need 6-12 weeks off + graduated tape/splint return per Schöffl 2018+2020 protocols. Sports dietitian for serious training. This is NEVER a replacement for hand surgery consultation when indicated.